Manasarovar Lake is on the right and Rakshastal
Lake on the left. Nowadays, vehicles can drive round the holy
lake though most pilgrims prefer to walk as it is one of the most
important parts of the pilgrimage. The road has caused disagreement
between the current government and those who are concerned about
the lake's spiritual significance.
According to Tibetan Buddhism, there are "Four
Purification Gates" (Khrus Go) at the lake: the eastern gate
is where pilgrims eat a small pinch of Five-Coloured Crystal Sand
(Jema Nanga); at the southern gate pilgrims collect a type of
plant which is burned as incense (Pho Nanga); the western gate
is where the white soil is found which is used as a flavouring
in tea (Bul Nanga); at the northern gate pilgrims search for small
stones on which are found natural images of Buddhas and Tibetan
writing. These four things are sought after as purification for
negative deeds and as a blessing from the holy lake. Pilgrims
take them, with water and dried fish from the lake, to their family
and friends as a blessing.
 Seralung
is the eastern monastery. It was founded by Dordzin Konchok Gyudzin,
the Dordzin of Mount Kailash and a disciple of Konchok Trinley
Zangpo, who was then throne-holder of the Drikung lineage. Konchok
Trinley Zangpo instructed his disciple to establish this monastery
on the eastern shore of Lake Manasarovar.
After its founding, Seralung Monastery was headed
by successive rebirths of Serlung Tulku. It was destroyed in the
Chinese invasion, but rebuilt in 1981 by Khenpo Konchok Chopel
Rinpoche, who lives there today with a group of monks.
Nyego Monastery
is the south-eastern monastery. When Atisha visited Lake Manasarovar
on pilgrimage and walked round the lake, he stayed at this spot
for a few days, finding it very pleasant. Atisha made some tsa
tsas (little clay statues produced with a mould) and then erected
a building to house them.
Later the Sakya Lama, Nyorchen Kunga Lhundrup,
extended the little house into a full-sized monastery. Because
of its beginnings as a resting place for Atisha, the monastery
was named “Pleasant Start.” Destroyed during the Chinese
invasion, Nyego Monastery has not yet been rebuilt.
Trugo Monastery
is on the southern shore of Lake Manasarovar. This monastery was
also destroyed in the Chinese invasion, but was partially rebuilt
in 1985. Trugo Monastery is now the largest monastic community,
due to the hard work of Lama Lobsang Samten (known locally as
Lama Chungma). He has also begun several projects to support the
local economy, including the production of mineral water, souvenirs
and so on. Trugo monastery offers accommodation and catering and
is a pleasant place to stay on the shore of the holy lake.
Gossul Monastery
is the south-western monastery. When Atisha visited Mount Kailash
and Lake Manasarovar, he spent a week on this spot. Gyalwa Gotsangpa
later undertook a three month retreat on the site and then founded
Gossul Monastery there. Because this monastery was the first branch
of the Drukpa Kagyu lineage in Western Tibet, it was named “Gossul”
or “Start.”
In the middle of the 19th century, the Gelugpa
Lama, Gelong Jinpa Norbu, came to Gossul Monastery and greatly
increased its size. At this time the monastery’s affiliation
shifted from Drukpa Kagyu to Gelug. Gossul Monastery was destroyed
during the Chinese invasion in the last century and has now been
partially rebuilt.
Chiu Monastery
lies on the western shore, built on a boulder which resembles
Zangdokpalri, the palace of Guru Rinpoche. When Guru Rinpoche
brought Buddhism to Tibet, he remained in the country for 54 years.
When he left in 876 AD, he stopped at a cave to the west of Lake
Manasarovar and stayed there for a week. Chiu Monastery grew up
around this cave.
At Chiu Monastery you can still see a footprint
which Guru Rinpoche left in his cave and a statue of Guru Rinpoche,
called Guru Nadrama. This statue is believed to have been made
by Guru Rinpoche himself, and is said to resemble him closely.
Chiu Monastery belongs to the Drukpa Kagyu tradition.
It was destroyed during the time of the Chinese invasion but a
small monastery has been rebuilt which still houses its precious
statues.
Chirkip Monastery
is in the north-west. In the sutras, the Buddha described a miraculous
trip he took with 500 arhat disciples to Chirkip, a place north
of Bodh Gaya. There, on a cliff overlooking Lake Manasarovar,
he found many caves in which he and his disciples undertook retreats.
Later Chena Drikung Lingpa went with 500 other
practitioners for a long retreat on the same spot. Thus, Chirkip
and its caves became a Drikung Kagyu retreat center. Today there
is not a formal monastery, but there are a few monks staying in
retreat in Chirkip’s caves.
Langbona Monastery
is the northern monastery. It was founded by the Drukpa Kagyu
master, Druptob Nyemowa Samten Puntsok, who found a ridge shaped
like an elephant’s trunk on the northern shore of Lake Manasarovar
and spent many years in retreat there. The monastery that grew
up around him was therefore called “Elephant’s Trunk.”
After his death, Druptob Nyemowa Samten Puntsok’s reincarnation
line was traditionally linked to Langbona Monastery, which was
rebuilt in 1986.
Bonri Monastery lies at the
north-eastern point. It was founded by Gugewa Khedrup Lozang Norbu
who had studied at Sera Monastery in Lhasa. From its inception,
therefore, it belonged to the Gelug tradition. Bonri Monastery’s
name means “Bon Mountain.”, so-called because it sits
on a mountain which is holy to the Bon religion. Destroyed in
the Chinese invasion, Bonri Monastery has not been rebuilt. |
